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Pacificana is 10 of NYC's Best Chinese Restaurants
813 55th St., 718-871-2880, Sunset Park, Brooklyn
The crown jewel of Sunset Park's Chinatown is Pacificana, a vast sea of round tables filled with well-heeled Chinese families. Dim sum brunch here is an epic experience, presenting an overwhelming array of dumplings, spring rolls, sweet shrimp wrapped in slippery rice noodles, sautéed vegetables and seafood. When the ladies park their carts by your table, point and nod to signal what you want, unless you speak Chinese.
Be assured that it's all good and clean, freshly prepared in an open kitchen that looks like a theatrical production in and of itself. Dim sum is available seven days a week for breakfast and lunch. Dinner is also a well-oiled machine, with choreographed service and lazy Susans in the middle of each table laden with Cantonese-style pork, beef, chicken, duck, squab and vegetarian preparations. It's a destination that's worth the effort it takes to get there, and certainly less onerous than a trip to Guangzhou.
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